|
2cvs (and other A-types) are very strong and most things outlive the main problem of these cars, being rust.
However, now that so many 2cvs live for so long, other problems start appearing.
One of these is the steering.
Many 2cvs have by now play/wear on the steering.
There are 4 balljoints in the 2cv steering.
Two on the outside, near the wheels on the track rod ends.
Another two in the axle tube.
Another point of wear is the guiding ring on the steering rack itself.
Let's look at rebuilting the steering.
Balljoints on track rod ends
These have end caps secured with a splitpin.
Remove the splitpin and unscrew the cap.
Use plenty of penetrating oil or some heat if needed.
Make sure not to damage the cap so that the outer diameter is changed.
This can easily happen when using improper tools to turn the cap.
Undo the 2 bolts holding the lever arm onto the hubcarrier.
Hit the lever from below with a hammer to get it out.
It has a conical fitting.
The ball on the end of the lever has 2 flat sides.
By turning it, it can be taken out of the trackrod end.
If the ball has worn oval, replace the lever, new ones are available.
Fitting a balljoint that has worn oval will lock the balljoint and it will break off.
Remove the cup from the trackrod end if you haven't already.
Clean the inside of the trackrod end
Make sure the cap can be turned in with ease, clean threads if needed.
Put new grease in the trackrod end.
Check the rubber boot and replace if necesary, fit the boot to the trackrod end.
Put the ball back into the joint, put in more grease and fit the the cup and cap.
Tighten the cap, then turn back 1/6th to 1/4 turn.
The ball should rotate easily but the joint should be tight and without play.
Bolt the lever back onto the hub carrier.
After tightening the bolts, put a socket over the bolts and hit it with a hammer, the lever wildrop further into the hub carrier, and the bolts can easily be tightened further.
Balljoints and guiding ring on rack
For this the axle tube has to be removed from the car.
On the other side of the splined steering input shaft, undo the cap (after removing the splitpin).
The cap is the long cap (i'll explain this later) and out off the hole come a spring and a shiny bit that pushes onto the rack.
The steering housing itself can be onbolted (6 bolts with locking tabs) from the axle tube without removing the trackrods if needed.
The track rods also need to come off, using an appropriate puller.
The trackrod can be very tight, a proper trackrod puller shoudl get them off.
Cut off and replace the rubber strap underneath the trackrods to make more room for the puller if needed.
With the trackrods off undo the cap on the side of the rack.
This cap looks like the one we've seen before but it's much shorter.
After the cap you get the following parts: cup, ball, cup, tube with spring inside, cup, ball, cup.
Get everything out, nothing special, just fiddly.
Check cups and balls for wear, a replacement kit containing all of the parts just mentioned is available for not too much money.
Check the guidance ring for wear by putting the empty rack in the housing.
Wear is clearly visible on the pictures below.
There are 2 types of rings, older type are located by a small pin, newer type are welded(?) on.
Get the ring off and put the new one on!
After that check for burrs inside the tube, with pressing the new ring on this can easily happen.
Burrs will appear around the holes where the balljoints came out.
Clean up the inside so it's nice and smooth.
the parts, new and old, note the wear on the old ring, new ring is wider.
more of the same.
New ring in housing, checking for wear in the tube, new ring going on.
new ring with securing pin, flattening the head after widening the pin innards.
Flatten the remains off and the result.
Make sure the cap can be turned in with ease, clean threads if needed.
Put everything back using plenty of fresh grease.
Make sure the cups go down nice and square by gently tapping it down with a socket or pipe as big as will fit inside the tube.
Tighten the cap, then turn back 1/6th to 1/4 turn.
The balls should rotate easily but the joints should be tight and without play.
Now you didn't forget to put the rack into the housing, did you?
The housing is not symmetrical so check with the axle tube (bolt holes)
There should be plenty grease around the guiding ring as well.
Fit the housing to the tube.
Then put the shiny ting into the hole at the end (with plenty of grease) then the spring, then the cap.
Tighten the cap, then turn back 1/6th to 1/4 turn.
Now all you have to worry about is wheel bearings and kingpins!
Cats Citroën Net Feature Index
Cats Citroën Net Index
|
